【The New Yorker】A Tofu-Pudding Revival, at Fong On

おはようございます。KANOです。今回はこちらの記事から。

A Tofu-Pudding Revival, at Fong On

Paul Eng carries on his family’s legacy at the Chinatown shop, which had been making tofu since 1933, to sell extremely ...

www.newyorker.com

tofu pudding（豆腐花）について。黒蜜やジャムをかけて食べる台湾スイーツ。
豆腐は美味しいですね。安い木綿でも醤油かければ美味しく食べられるのすごい。

bean curd

意味　豆腐 (tofu).

For lovers of bean curd—this is true love we’re talking about—silken tofu is one of the happiest things to eat. Made from soaked soybeans ground with water into soy milk, then allowed to coagulate and pressed into the desired consistency, soft tofu mimics dairy in appearance, texture, and richness while delivering a clean, impartial flavor that evokes freshness itself.

https://www.newyorker.com/magazine/2023-10-23/tofu-pudding-saves-the-day-at-fong-on

coddle

意味　〈卵など〉をとろ火でゆでる.

Served alone, stewed in a fiery Sichuan mapo tofu or Korean sundubu-jjigae, or as the centerpiece of Japanese agedashidōfu (deep-fried and coddled in dashi and bonito flakes), silken tofu is a vegan underdog hero in the pantheon of proteins.

https://www.newyorker.com/magazine/2023-10-23/tofu-pudding-saves-the-day-at-fong-on

savvy

意味　(米· くだけて)〈人が〉（実際的な） 知識を持った, やり手の, しっかりした

But Asian communities—Chinese in particular—as they grew, started making their own, and business slowed; by 2017, Eng’s brother closed the shop’s doors. Eng, the fifth son, had cycled through many artistic pursuits—from rock guitarist to photographer living in Moscow for a decade—and in 2019 he reopened the store, with a savvy spin: go small.

https://www.newyorker.com/magazine/2023-10-23/tofu-pudding-saves-the-day-at-fong-on

on the premise

意味　敷地内 で

The tofu is made on the premises, in the back of the shop.

https://www.newyorker.com/magazine/2023-10-23/tofu-pudding-saves-the-day-at-fong-on

coagulate

意味　〈物など〉を凝固させる.

Then they are allowed to coagulate, before being pressed into shape.

https://www.newyorker.com/magazine/2023-10-23/tofu-pudding-saves-the-day-at-fong-on

rumbling

意味　[U][C]ゴロゴロ [ガラガラ] いう音.

Beneath the rumbling train on the Manhattan Bridge, Eng’s Chinatown store is a beacon in gleaming white subway tile and small-batch daufu fa. Eng, who had originally intended to serve the pudding as he had grown up eating it—warm and drizzled with nothing more than brown-sugar syrup, in the custom of his ancestral province of Guangdong—discovered a new style, with toppings, on a trip to Taiwan.

https://www.newyorker.com/magazine/2023-10-23/tofu-pudding-saves-the-day-at-fong-on

demur

意味　（控えめに） 異議を唱える, 反対する

Eng sells his soy milk and tofu wholesale, but only to a handful of restaurants, some of which have Michelin stars (Eleven Madison Park, Contra). When asked what distinguishes his tofu, Eng demurred. “It’s not like I do anything special. It’s just that I care about what things taste like, for myself and to other people.” (Tofu pudding starts at $5.50.) ♦

https://www.newyorker.com/magazine/2023-10-23/tofu-pudding-saves-the-day-at-fong-on