【The New York Times】South Indian Food That Goes Back to Its Roots, at Semma (Published 2022)

soup with vegetable on white ceramic bowl beside stainless steel spoon 英語ニュース多読
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おはようございます。KANOです。今回はこちらの記事から。

South Indian Food That Goes Back to Its Roots, at Semma (Published 2022)
The latest restaurant from the creators of Dhamaka and Adda finds excitement in deep cuts from Tamil Nadu and other stat...

そういえば最近「ナンはインド料理じゃない、失礼だ!」って見出しの日本語記事をタイトルだけ見かけたなー。
あほらしくてその記事を読まなかったのは、煽りタイトルなのが見え見えだったのと、「日本にあるインド料理店で出されてたらそれはインド料理なんだよ」って思ったから。例え本国人が違うって言ってもねぇ。それに美味けりゃそれが正義なのよね。

Unapologetic

意味 非を認めようとしない, 謝罪の言葉のない.

The servers at Semma walk around in long-sleeve black T-shirts printed with a white logo that says Unapologetic Indian. This is a reference to Unapologetic Foods, the company that runs Semma along with Dhamaka and Adda Indian Canteen. It’s also the group’s slogan, a vow to offer cuisine that pulls no punches.

https://www.nytimes.com/2022/01/10/dining/restaurant-review-semma-south-indian-food.html

apologyの否定語かな…と思ったけど若干自信がなかったので念のため調べてみた。→あってた!えらい!

implication

意味 [U][具体例では an (…) ~/~s]<…という/…の> 含意, 含み; 暗示 <that 節/of (wh 節)>

With its sly implication that what other Indian restaurants are selling isn’t quite the real thing, “Unapologetic Indian” is a virtuoso piece of marketing. You could also read it as a belated clap-back to the British Raj, which put an area with one of the world’s great culinary cultures under the rule of colonial administrators from the country that gave us mushy peas and bubble and squeak.

https://www.nytimes.com/2022/01/10/dining/restaurant-review-semma-south-indian-food.html

squiggly

意味 〈線が〉くねった, のたくった.

Mulaikattiya thaniyam, a small, lastingly spicy salad of grated coconut and mung beans bearing pale, crisp, squiggly sprouts, could slide right into the menu at one of the more serious plant-based nightspots in the East Village. So could the Mangalore huukosu, cauliflower fried in a chickpea-and-rice-flour batter and then dressed with coconut chutney.

https://www.nytimes.com/2022/01/10/dining/restaurant-review-semma-south-indian-food.html

vast

意味 莫大 (ばくだい) な, おびただしい〈数· 量など〉; (程度などが) 大変な

Instead of editing his native country’s vast repertory to suit American fine-dining values, as he had done at Junoon, or fusing it with other influences, as at Rahi, he went back to the source, locating street snacks and home-style recipes whose original power hadn’t been refined out of existence by professionals in white jackets.

https://www.nytimes.com/2022/01/10/dining/restaurant-review-semma-south-indian-food.html

epiphany

意味 [C][e-]直覚的な悟り (の瞬間).

One thing that makes Semma so exciting is that it suggests that Mr. Pandya had more than a private epiphany. He seems to have hit on an approach that he can share with other chefs — the open source code of Unapologetic Foods. (Mr. Pandya is the corporate chef and a partner in the group, which is owned by Roni Mazumdar.)

https://www.nytimes.com/2022/01/10/dining/restaurant-review-semma-south-indian-food.html

paddy

意味 水田, 稲田 (paddy field, rice paddy).

Not having visited the Kumars’ rice paddy, I can’t vouch for that. But at Semma he serves two dishes from his childhood that you’d have a hard time finding at another New York restaurant.

https://www.nytimes.com/2022/01/10/dining/restaurant-review-semma-south-indian-food.html

obscure

意味 (世に) よく知られていない, 無名の (unknown)

Dosas are much less obscure. Almost any local South Indian restaurant from Floral Park in Queens to Iselin, N.J., will make you a dosa. This does not mean you have permission to skip the triangular gunpowder dosa at Semma. It may well be impossible to make a dosa with a more dramatic contrast between its crisp, amber-brown griddled exterior and the tender, spongy interior; it seems physically impossible for these two extremes to be united on something no thicker than a potato chip.

https://www.nytimes.com/2022/01/10/dining/restaurant-review-semma-south-indian-food.html

rustic

意味 (ほめて) 田舎の, 田舎風の; 素朴な; 質素な (田舎の純朴さを強調する)

The excitement that Adda and Dhamaka generate through the raw power of rustic cooking Semma gets instead from the brightness of its chutneys, the richness of its coconut-milk sauces, the dense layerings of ginger and freshly ground spices. Semma also has a longer, more varied menu, and pays closer attention to vegetables, making it easier to fill the table with dishes that all have something different to say.

https://www.nytimes.com/2022/01/10/dining/restaurant-review-semma-south-indian-food.html

rust(さび)からは連想できないやつなのかーそんなんありかー!難しいw

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